XBOX One Disc Drive Mechanical Faults
XBOX One Disc Drive Mechanical Fault Troubleshooting
Difficulty Level - Medium
If your XBOX One console has a disc reading issue, start here.
All XBOX One models have the same lasers and mechanisms, and very often can be fixed without having to shell out a load of cash. Checking the disc drive mechanics is your first step.
Follow the instructions below.
Faulty Laser Symptoms
- XBOX One Not playing games
- XBOX One Games Not Installing
- XBOX One Games Freezing
- XBOX One Disc Stuck
- XBOX One Disc Not Accepted
XBOX One disc reading problems are very common, and are fairly simple to fix. They account for about 50% of Xbox console repairs that we do, and the faults can be caused by either the laser unit itself, or the mechanics of the drive.
This page is your starting point if you are experiencing any kind of XBOX One disc drive problems, and we are going to go through a series of steps that you can try, in the correct order, to troubleshoot your possible fault.
If your console won't play your games, the problem is most likely going to be either laser related or drive mechanics.
Replacing the laser is the last port-of-call, as this is going to cost you money. First of all, you want to be checking out every other option first.
You'd be surprised with the amount of Xboxes we see where someone has shoved an object into the drive slot, especially if you've got kids. We've found food, cardboard, Lego pieces, credit cards, coins, and yes, cockroaches. It goes without saying that these foreign objects are going to cause problems.
STEP BY STEP
1. To remove the shell, first turn the console over on to its side, and remove the side grille panel. you may need a flat head screw driver to wedge it off.
2. Now slide out the Xbox one sync button, which sits underneath, against the edge of the faceplate.
3. With the side grille removed, you now need to get a large flat head screwdriver and separate the 2 halves of the console shell, by wedging the driver in between the 2 halves, which are joined together at the seam. Dig the driver in carefully but very firmly, and wedge a gap between the two.
4. Now turn the console around to the back, and you want to do the same, along several points across the length of the back of the console, and you should hear the console cover snapping open. This takes a bit of getting used to first time out, and you may have the feeling that you're going to wreck the plastic shell, but stick with it, and be firm.
5. The top half of the shell should now separate from the console, but will have the front faceplate attached to it still with a ribbon connector - so be careful. DON'T PULL IT OFF YET.
6. Turn the console back around to the front carefully, and locate the connector underneath the faceplate. You now need to push back the connector clip, and flip the cable over the connector, in order to remove it. It's definitely a bit tricky this step, so proceed with caution. if you ripped the cable, you're stuffed (and will have to buy a replacement faceplate)
7. Remove the top shell and faceplate.
8. Remove the 2 security torx T8 screws holding the bluetooth board, in the top left corner of the console. pull the board out of its plug.
9. At the other end of the bluetooth wire at the front of the console, unclip the connector from the RF board, using a small flat head driver, using a careful flicking motion to unclip it.
10. With a Security Torx T10 screwdriver, remove all of the 9 long black screws around the console.
11. Unclip the sound module from the cover, and leave dangling carefully for now.
12. You can now lift the metal console cover off, but be aware it is still connected to the motherboard underneath.
13. Locate the plug underneath the metal cover, in the top left hand corner, and pull the connector out of the motherboard.
14. You can now put this cover aside for now.
15. The blu ray drive can now be removed from the chassis, by pulling out the 2 plugs, (the red and yellow wires) at the top edge of the blu ray drive.
16. Put the console chassis aside, and leave the blu ray drive on the bench in front of you.
17. Pull off the black plastic drive holder.
18. Remove the 4 little drive cover screws, with a small cross head driver. Remove the cover.
19. Now you are inside the drive, you need to get to the laser, which is underneath the circuit board. Locate the 3 connectors which are inserted in to the circuit board. Flip up the 3 connectors one at a time, and pull out the cables.
20. Now remove the 3 little screws which are holding the circuit board in place, using a small cross head driver.
21. Pull the board out and leave it outside the drive, bearing in mind that the circuit board is attached to the drive by 2 wires. Be careful not to rip the wires off the board.
22. Remove the 3 screws holding the laser deck in place.
23. You can now pull out the laser deck from the drive.
With the laser deck out, you now have the drive mechanics in front of you. At this point, you should be able to see if there are any physical obstructions inside your drive. If you have kids, then this is a realistic possibility! We see it all the time. Check to see if anything has been inserted.
Now let's delve further into the Xbox One Drive mechanics.
24. With your Coldklene spray and kitchen towel, give the black roller (which runs along the width inside the entrance to the drive) a really good clean down. Make sure you get the towel underneath the roller, and clean the white plastic plate underneath it.
This can solve issues with the disc not entering the drive properly, or not sitting in its correct position when inserted, resulting in the disc not reading.
25. Now pull the mechanics out of the remaining drive cover. This requires a bit of force, to slide it out. Be careful with the circuit board, and make sure you don't pull the wires off the board. Put the drive cover aside.
26. Observe the back of the drive mechanism. Take a look at the black cogs at the top, and look at the teeth interlocking with each other. Make sure that the teeth are in the correct position. To verify this, you will need to see the video.
27. Now look at the grey metal arm, and make sure that the end of the arm sits underneath the black plastic part. if it has come out of position, tuck the arm back underneath.
28. Locate the black moving part that is holding this part of the drive in place. Push it back, so that you can freely move the whole mechanism back and forth. (see the video). You want to be able to push the black moving parts all the way to the top of the drive, and back down again freely.
29. Get a cloth, and with your spray, clean all surfaces, front and back of the mechanism.
30. Check the 2 rubber belts on the side edge of the drive have their integrity in tact, and haven't worn out or become too loose.
31. Make sure the 2 connector plugs are properly pushed into their sockets on the circuit board. I've seen this be an issue before now.
These are the main mechanical issues you will see.
If you are still having problems after troubleshooting the mechanics, your next port of call is to replace the laser and its deck.
See my XBOX One Blu Ray Laser Replacement page to do this. If you continue to have problems AFTER all troubleshooting, including the laser, then you could consider replacing the complete blu ray drive unit. I've provided a link to one on Amazon below. You will need to swap out your circuit board and put it into the replacement drive though, which will involve removing the circuit board inside the donor drive, and putting your board into it, and soldering the red and black cables on to the drive mech. See my board swap video for more information.
Now put the drive back together.
32. Put the drive mechanics back into the drive cover carefully.
33. Put the laser decking back into the drive, and put the 3 screws back in place.
34. Position the circuit board back in place, and make sure the front of the board goes UNDERNEATH the black plastic lip at the front.
35. Put 3 connectors back in, and flip the connector grips in place.
36. Put the 3 screws back in to secure the board.
37. Now put the cover back on, and screw in the 4 screws.
38. Clip the black plastic drive holder back on to the drive.
39. Put the drive back into the chassis, and plug the 2 drive connectors back into the motherboard.
40. Make sure that the drive is fitted securely back into the chassis. If not, the cover will not go on properly.
41. Put the console metal cover back on, making sure you connect the bluetooth plug into the motherboard first, and then position the cover properly over the chassis, so that it feels snug.
42. Put all 9 black torx T10 screws back in.
43. Put the bluetooth board plug back in, and secure with the 2 torx T8 screws.
44. Clip the bluetooth wire back onto the RF board.
45. Clip the sound module back into place.
46. You can now put the console cover back on, BUT FIRST -
47. You need to remove the faceplate from the top half of the console cover first.
48. Locate the faceplate clips, which are attached to the cover. Unclip them all, and with a bit of 'cajoling' the faceplate will unclip from the cover.
49. Put the top cover back in to place. It should easily clip back on. Start from the back.
50. Now you can put the faceplate back on. First, put the connector into the RF board at the front, and push the connector grip back into place.
51. Now, locate the clips along your faceplate. Hook the BOTTOM of the faceplate onto the corresponding clips on the bottom of the shell, and hook on. Then you can do the same with the top of the faceplate, locating the clips along the top of the console shell. They should now clip in to place.
52. Put the Sync Button bezel back into place.
53. Put the side grille back on and clip down.